There’s no question about it in my mind. Customers at Marks & Spencer should be getting the message at the moment - several in fact - through the chain’s catch-line “Look behind the label”.

The first one which caught my eye was the general invitation to “Eat a Rainbow” when it comes to all fruit and veg. With the FPC Eat in Colour campaign apparently in the balance, could it be that St Michael has stolen a march?

More specifically, M&S shelves are decked out with information on health. Examples are: “Red fruit and vegetables contain plant compounds like lyocopene in tomatoes, and antiocynantes in blueberries which are known to be good for you.”

Also, for the less scientifically minded: “Broccoli is a rich source of folic acid maintaining a healthy heart and important during pregnancy.” And while to the trade it may sound like M&S is stating the obvious with its “You can trust all our fruit not to be GM” claim - the retailer obviously believes that public doubts still linger.

In fact, M&S has a way with words at present. I came across what I think is new terminology when applied to carrots, in this case 200g of the young Moroccan crop, complete with trimmed tops for £1.49. Speciality they may be - but I always thought that “limited editions” - as it states on the pack - were confined to items such as books, celebration china and glassware.

Meanwhile, at this time of the year when temperatures fall everyone probably knows that citrus with its vitamin C is good for you and, as if by magic, Sicilian fruit makes an appearance. However, opinions still seem divided over how to describe the colour of the fruit. Tesco, for example, refers to Tarocco (four-in-a-net for £1.69) as “pigmented”, while on the same shelf there are Moro “ruby red” oranges. Years ago, Outspan set up a marketing deal on the island and did some research into this conundrum. The results showed that the public are put off by the term “blood” when associated with their oranges - although this description still exists on Sainsbury’s packs of Tarocco (£1.89 for four).

If fruit in general, however it is presented or described, looks attractive, there is a different case to answer in the world of vegetables, and probably no more so than with potatoes.

The use of coloured lithoprinting on pre-packs is helping, as is the case with Sainsbury’s organic Pink Fir Apple (£2.49 for 750g). One of the oldest known commercial varieties, it re-emerged in the 1970s but has always been hard to find. And while the name may appeal to cookery writers, I can attest the lady at the checkout was very confused as to exactly what they were!

At least there is no mistaking tomatoes, and the trend now seems to have moved on to include mixed packs of the numerous varieties. A new line from Tesco is a speciality selection grown in Spain (350g for £1.79). It contains three varieties, chosen according to availability from Piccolo, Flavorino, Spicie, Suntina, Sunstream, and Marinda.