It's not the first time that Which? has delved into the world of fresh produce retailing.

In my view, and not surprisingly, the five-page assessment does not actually tell the trade anything new. Whether consumers are interested in the fact that producers are expected to pay for the privilege of being multiple suppliers - I have my own ideas - or that each retailer has its own quality standards above those initiated by EU authorities, is a matter for conjecture.

The main concern of most shoppers is surely that the products they buy are of good quality and safe to eat - and in this respect it is difficult to deny that the multiples have done a good job and are extending choice almost weekly.

No-one would disagree that competition among the big battalions will become more competitive. However, I was somewhat surprised to read that while the Which? survey confirms that consistency of appearance remains paramount, it claims that taste is still on the back shelf.

I would strongly dispute that suggestion. The days have gone when early Mediterranean grapefruit was so acidic it took the enamel off your teeth and strawberries or even early peaches often tasted like turnips.

I used to help sell them all in the old Covent Garden in the 1950s, when the novelty of being the first of the season had a direct relationship with a high price, despite the fact the consumer was more often than not justifiably disappointed.

Today a great deal has been done by breeders, growers, importers and the retail trade - often working together - to find new and improved varieties where the value of maturity is understood.

Within these parameters, it must be remembered that taste is objective. Who can really say that a Golden Delicious is better than a Cox or Pink Lady®, whether it has been stored for 12 months or two? I know people who swear by rock-hard pears, and others who like bananas when they are turning black.

I would tend to agree with the assertion of the report that it is more difficult to work out actual value for money. Leaving names to everyone's imagination there are some supermarkets that target the top end of the market, and others whose policy is to concentrate elsewhere.

It is the middle ground with its special offers, BOGOFs and much more that is more impractical. The customer needs a mind like a computer, several hours of thinking time and unlimited petrol to find the best-value choice.

There are of course cheaper outlets for the consumer who wants them, and arguably among them are the farmers' markets and independent greengrocers that Which? proposes consumers use. However both are still comparatively few and far between.

One statistic that recently came my way says it all. In its heyday the Retail Fruit Trade Federation could claim to represent more than 35,000 outlets. Today, the sector is less than one tenth that size.

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