The first UK branch of US-based Whole Foods Market has opened its doors to mixed reviews in London.

The 80,000sqft store in upmarket Kensington is the biggest dedicated food store in the UK. But sector analysts are keen to point out that behind the hype is a chain with very small market-share potential.

Founder John Mackey, right, said: “We want our shoppers to celebrate the joys of eating and living well. We hope Whole Foods Market will continue to prompt change in the way people think about and shop for food.”

But Jim Prevor, editor of US magazine Produce Business and also renowned as the online Perishable Pundit, told FPJ: “The thing to remember about Whole Foods is that its concept is very much in sync with what reporters like to write about and what a rich demographic sector likes to read about.

“As a result, scarcely an article is written about contemporary American supermarkets that doesn’t highlight Whole Foods.

“However, Whole Foods is much less in sync with where people actually buy food. After 27 years of growth, Whole Foods accounts for only around one per cent of US grocery store sales, and that is in dollars - volume is significantly smaller.”

The move into the UK marks a major step in the expansion of the business outside the US and the retailer is tapping into the growing interest in organic food among UK consumers.

“Whole Foods is a beautiful store, but it is not scaleable at a price that the mainstream American consumer can afford or is interested in paying,” said Prevor. “So while Whole Foods may change the way British consumers look at food by introducing a newfound focus on gastronomic luxury that may find reflections in other upscale outlets, Whole Foods is unlikely to change the way many British consumers buy food.”

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