The number of farmers’ markets in the US has grown from an estimated 600 in 1976 to almost 4,700 in 2008.

Professor Garry Stephenson of Oregon State University said: “Whereas older markets were started for ‘farmer income’, there is now strong evidence to suggest that newer markets are being formed to build the community, with a shift that suggests community members are behind forming markets, a role previously undertaken solely by farmers."

Co-ordinator of the Small Farms programme, Stephenson has been involved for 10 years in research, organisational support and shopping methods used at farmers’ markets.

Speaking at the National Farmers’ Retail & Markets Association (FARMA) conference in Newcastle, Stephenson said that American farmers’ market managers highlighted having fun without great effort as the key characteristic of a successful farmers’ market. The importance of smells, colours and bustling foot traffic were also mentioned.

“They also said that it was vital to know the local community well and also the person who was being served,” said Stephenson. Community ownership needed to involve as many people as possible, the managers said, and personal relationships were important.

The research found that volunteers have a key role to play in community building, as do specific farmers’ market stands, which provided information for the elderly and a place for them to pause, rest and talk.

In the current tough economic climate, a loyal customer base and a supportive local community can go a long way towards helping weather the storm. Relationships with customers and other components of the communities in which farmers and farmers markets operate are also very important.

The atmosphere for customers must be friendly, inviting and leisurely, creating a place to linger and enjoy social interaction, said Stephenson. “But you must have really good produce,” he added. “You have nothing without outstanding produce.”