Tipped for the top

Much excitement greets the start of the British asparagus season. The coveted vegetable has a very short main season that lasts just eight weeks and, when it comes on stream in late April, enjoys an attentive and receptive response.

The UK asparagus season does not normally get underway officially until April 23 - St George’s Day - but this year, the first batch of asparagus tips were sold in Tesco’s Evesham store as early as February 13.

S&A Produce, of Great Witley, Worcestershire, claims the early crop was down to vastly improved and more efficient growing methods. The company grows its asparagus by heating the soil in its glasshouses, pumping warm water through pipes that run underground, and hopes to switch its heating system from gas to one that is powered by wood chips next year.

According to Matt Foster of grower co-operative Western Asparagus Growers, harvesting can only get earlier with protection and artificial heating. However, he says that early asparagus needs to be the right variety to grow good-quality product economically.

As growers begin harvesting the new crop, the industry is optimistic about this season’s prospects.

S&A Produce is in its second year of asparagus production and is doubling its yield against last season. “This is partly due to the onset of early spring, which has resulted in the field crops coming two weeks early,” PR manager Rebecca Edmonds tells FPJ. “Also, we had a good autumn season for the fern, which meant in turn a lot of potential in the crowns.”

Howard Radcliffe, supply chain director of Barfoots of Botley, confirms that conditions have been suitable. “A colder-than-average winter but good early spring conditions, coupled with crop covers, have meant that we have started around 10 days earlier than normal,” he says. “We anticipate peak volumes in the second week of May.”

Lincolnshire asparagus grower C Wright & Son (Gedney) Ltd harvested its first patch in week 16. Director Adam Cunnington anticipates that the main season will be as good as ever. However, he predicts that the sector will have lower yields than normal due to poor weather over the past two seasons. “Demand is always good, so availability may be a problem,” adds Cunnington.

Indeed, the last two summers have proved challenging for growers and a number of marketers say this will have an impact on this season’s crop.

“The situation differs from farm to farm and even possibly from region to region, but production is most likely going to be lower compared to previous years,” says Adrian Barlow, who got involved in the asparagus industry 18 months ago. “There was a lack of sunshine in 2008 so the plants have not had as much energy,” he says. “It certainly won’t be a bad year for production - far from it - but it would be unrealistic to expect bumper volumes.”

Early asparagus always captures the headlines, but growers are also looking at ways to extend the end of the season beyond June. According to Ross Baker of the Asparagus Growers’ Association (AGA), growers are working on commercial trials as a means of extending the end of the season, but it is too early to assess commercial viability for large-scale production.

Barfoots is also investigating ways in which to extend the season, both at the start and at the end of the deal. However, Radcliffe says that the company has to weigh up the additional costs of early-season production and the effects of late harvesting on the following year’s cropping.

It is an exciting time to be involved in the UK asparagus scene. In recent years, producers have invested heavily in new techniques and acreage, as well as new varieties. More growers are also hoping to exploit increasing demand for local, seasonal produce.

Consumption has increased fourfold since 2002, with 14.5 per cent of UK households enjoying asparagus in 2007, compared to three per cent in 2002, according to TNS figures.

However, while there have been a number of successful initiatives to boost consumption, it is fair to say that some consumers do not buy asparagus because they perceive it to be too expensive.

According to Foster, many retailers have responded to this by reducing pack weights to present more attractive price points.

Radcliffe agrees that when prices are keen, consumption of asparagus rises significantly. “However, we need to remember that asparagus is a crop that requires significant investment during the crop establishment phase, has a short season to repay investment and is still in short supply from a UK perspective,” he says. “Therefore, there needs to be sufficient value for the grower to ensure continued investment within the crop.”

Jamie Petchell from Hargreaves Plants says that UK consumers are being provided with real value for money with home-grown asparagus. “There are now many sorts available, including spears, tips, different colours, varying pack sizes and salad packs,” he says. “These are enough to satisfy the consumer and the range has certainly helped to drive demand.”

According to Edmonds, it pays to buy British. “The quality and taste of UK asparagus compared to imported produce from Peru and the like is vastly superior,” she says.

In these recession-hit times, promotional campaigns that focus on the value of asparagus are vital. This year’s campaign will concentrate on the affordable luxury of the vegetable and will partly focus on helping consumers to recreate restaurant-style food at home.

The British asparagus website - www.british-asparagus.co.uk - features a number of recipe suggestions that serve four for under £10. New recipes for 2009 include smoked ham and asparagus tart, griddled asparagus, pear and fennel salad and asparagus, as well as watercress and tomato risotto.

“British asparagus represents excellent value for money when you consider it delivers the best-tasting asparagus in the world, ties up the land 52 weeks of the year for an eight-week harvest, and is extremely labour-intensive to get to market,” says Baker. “This year’s campaign offers recipes that deliver great value for money and feeds four for under £10. There has been significant media interest in the campaign theme of restaurant-quality dining at home.”

A number of asparagus festivals and events will be held during the season. The British Asparagus Festival in the Vale of Evesham officially kicked off this year’s proceedings on April 23. Other activities include the Asparagus & Music Festival in Colchester, Essex, and events at Wykham Park Farm.

The industry is optimistic that asparagus consumption will continue to rise. “I think penetration figures of 20 per cent are an achievable target in the future,” predicts Barlow.

There has been a lot of investment in the industry over the last five years by large-scale growers. However, Baker says that due to the long period that growers budget to harvest the crop, they are looking to see the right returns for their investment before they progress any further. “Large-scale production requires a large labour pool for a short period of time,” he points out.

As well as higher labour and fuel costs, Edmonds says that increasing regulation in the use of herbicides is also an issue. However, S&A Produce claims it is well equipped to deal with the challenges and will be expanding its asparagus production next year.

Baker also feels that there are still “massive opportunities” for the industry. “This is a fantastic product with a very loyal customer base and we are still only just reaching double-digit penetration now, so the scope for growth is huge,” he says.

Radcliffe agrees. “We see that the UK market is still under-supplied for the current customer base and penetration is still low, indicating the opportunity to increase this market in the future,” he says. “We are continuing to invest in the future production of UK asparagus.”

Barlow says it is important that the multiples recognise just how much work goes into producing the premium vegetable. “Asparagus is a very labour-intensive crop that requires a great deal of attention and skill,” he tells FPJ. “However, growers’ costs have risen more than five per cent this season alone, due to higher energy and fertiliser costs, as well as a higher minimum wage.”

Barlow says that a number of growers, both established and new, are being innovative and are looking to achieve even better taste and it is important that the multiples understand this.

However, he acknowledges that retailers are appreciative of the quality of British asparagus and are largely supportive.

Western Asparagus Growers has invested in a second Geostel grader this year to double capacity and reduce overtime on labour during the season. Similarly, Barfoots has invested in new grading machinery for this season in order to increase efficiency.

Many insiders agree that the priority has to be fulfilling UK demand, rather than looking to export markets for growth.

However, Petchell feels that in the future there could be an export market for UK asparagus. “The first concern for UK growers and packers should be to satisfy UK demand but, having said that, there will always be certain times within the season when production is higher and the weakness of sterling currently makes exports an attractive option,” he tells FPJ. “Extending the UK production season is still a major challenge, but certainly one to which growers are responding. This could provide another export opportunity.”

The UK asparagus sector currently offers little seasonal advantage to most continental sources of supply, but Radcliffe agrees that there has been an increase in interest in green asparagus on the continent. “With sterling’s current weak position against most major currencies, there could be opportunities for export into some northern European or Scandinavian countries,” he speculates.

Although the vast majority of asparagus consumed in the UK is green, this situation could change as consumers express greater interest in white asparagus.

Marks & Spencer began selling white asparagus last year for £2.49 per 100g and is working with farmer John Chinn, who has devoted two hectares to white asparagus. The Wye Valley-based grower believes that his is the only farm producing white asparagus in the UK. White asparagus is produced by mounding up soil and covering the mounds with a layer of black as well as clear polythene, to ensure no sunlight enters.

Given the successes over the last five years, the industry is confident of further growth in the future.

WEALMOOR LINK-UP PAYS OFF

Wealmoor is one of the UK’s largest suppliers of year-round asparagus and during the UK season, it works in partnership with a number of specialist growers, most notably Sandfields Farms. This farm has been growing asparagus for more than 100 years and produces the green vegetable on more than 200 hectares.

Sandfields Farms has invested heavily in early covered crops and growing methods to maximise product quality and yields. Product is taken from the field, rapidly cooled and then processed for sale through the Wealmoor packhouse in Tewkesbury. Further investment has been made this year in grading and packing equipment to optimise efficiency and yield.

Ian Critchley, crop manager of Sandfields Farm, is confident about the future prospects for asparagus. “With the provenance associated with British asparagus, the collaborative marketing efforts of the Asparagus Growers’ Association and the support of our retail customers, demand remains strong,” he says. “It is important not to just focus on price as the crop is expensive to grow, harvest and process and it is important that suppliers have continued incentive to invest.”