Known generically by a raft of names, including kaki, sharonfruit or persimmon, the Rojo Brillante has now earned denomination of origin status from the European Commission, identifying it as a speciality of the region.
At this time of year the deep orange and yellow crop positively glows through the glossy green leaves of the orchards, on trees which can take four to five years to reach commercial bearing. At first glance, the fruit could be mistaken for oranges - particular given the fact they are grown in the heartland of an area which can trace its impact on the Spanish citrus industry back over 200 years.
On closer inspection, however, its elongated shape and smooth, shiny skin is more mindful of a pepper, particularly because of the green calyx, rather than a stalk, when it is harvested.
Vicente Monzar, president of the council which fiercely protects the Rojo’s authenticity over other persimmons grown throughout Spain, is in no doubt that it is something special. “It is a unique variety which is still being discovered by consumers,” he says.
In the Jucar Valley, at a packhouse belonging to the L’Alcudia co-operative, a group linked to Annecoop, fruit is flowing through the system. After washing it is graded, both for size and colour, with an extra selection taking place by hand to create trays where the Rojas nestle upwards like goose eggs.
The best shaped and coloured fruit is individually labelled and goes for export, proudly carrying the certificate of origin and quality on each tray.
While Spaniards describe its texture and taste like a crisp peach, it has other hidden attributes.
The fruit is stoneless and seedless so it can be eaten like an apple. But its real USP is that before it is marketed it is held in cold store for 24 hours and treated with CO2 which destroys its astringency - often a hallmark of the numerous varieties which are part of its wider genus.
Its appearance in the Valencia region, which still supports thousands of small citrus growers, has, however, been very recent - less than 40 years.
Interest was derived from the fact that, with larger citrus plantations being established further south along the Mediterranean coastline, local growers were under pressure to find alternatives alongside stone fruit and strawberries. There was further impetus with persimmon varieties also being planted in Catalonia and Andalusia.
“Since the discovery of Rojos, there has been a steady increase in production by the 3,000 growers in our region,” says Monzar. He estimates there is 2,400 hectares in pocket-sized plots which make up the thriving industry.
However, Monzar says that planting is still continuing to expand at 10 per cent annually, although production is not without its problems. The skin is particularly fragile, with wastage during harvesting running as high as 20 per cent.
“To ensure it is perfect we subject the fruit to a pressure test which must be between 2.5 and 5.5kg a centimetre,” says Mario Vendrell, L’Alcudia’s quality manager. “After that it has a shelf-life of up to 15 days before it softens.”
At present the major market is Germany, which, according to the latest figures available from Foods from Spain, reached over 4.5 million kg four-years ago, followed by France and Portugal.
The national market is also showing increasing interest. “Current wholesale prices in late October were around 68p a kg,” says Monzar although he admits that like other consumers, the markets need educating.
Now, following success in other markets, the industry is being urged to turn its attention to the UK.
Unperturbed by a drop in production over the past two seasons due to climatic problems, the crop was on course for 2005 and sales are already well underway in a season which extends from October until December.
Monzar estimates that 100 tonnes will be shipped to the UK, and is delighted that this year, for the first time, the market has been included in the national European campaign, based on funding from Valencia growers and government.
The annual UK spend is £55,000, as part of a three-year drive, and the cash for this year has already been allocated on media relations, trade-press advertising, and supporting limited retail tastings and point of sale.
Two multiples which have already shown interest are Waitrose and Morrisons.
Ian Durrant, Waitrose promotions manager says: “We have had fruit on our shelves since mid-October, as a response to enquiries from customers which means the fruit is developing a following. It could certainly have a potential but at this stage more education is needed.”
To help stimulate demand, Rojo is featured in a specially designed grower barker, and has been promoted under three-for-two offers priced at 79p each, as well as being featured in its consumer publications.
Francisco Tello, procurement manager for Fesa, the commercial arm of Annecoop based in Spalding, is serving Morrisons.
“They offer a good opportunity at a time when everyone is looking for something new,” he says, “although it is a short season.” Currently fruit is being sold loose at 38p each, but there are discussions going on about the possibility of offering a 1kg polybag in the future.
