Having just paid a trip to Jersey, looking back at the mainland has given me a sense of perspective and led me to realise that potatoes have become the latest sexy product.

Jerseymen realised that almost 125 years ago when the famous Royal was discovered. And there are few in the trade who would deny that it still commands one of the highest levels of awareness in the category alongside the King Edward.

Statistically, we grow some 6 million tonnes of potatoes a year in the UK and Channel Islands and have, of course, moved on a long way from the time when greengrocers used to sell just reds and whites wrapped in newspaper.

The reformation has continued with the Potato Marketing Board endlessly promoting the importance of consumers understanding the different properties of each variety and its culinary uses. This has been continued to great effect by the PMB's successor, the British Potato Council, so that variety names are now commonplace on the shelves.

Subsequently, the arrival of an increasing number of what have become known as specialist varieties has further added interest to the sector. Some types - such as the UK's own Pink Fir Apple, as well as Ratte and Belle de Fontenay which owe their origins to France - seem to have faded somewhat, but there are a multitude of others all vying for shelf space. Amongst these, one sees an increasing number of exclusive varieties with growers and marketers naturally doing everything they can to increase awareness as well as sales.

Noteworthy too is a growing enthusiasm to promote regional and local produce, which adds to the mix.

Supported by the increasing number of regional food initiatives, Cornwall has already taken the bit between its teeth, Kent has followed suit and last month the East of England show was the venue for the launch of yet another initiative to bring the humble, local spud to the attention of the public.

Most of these potatoes, while well known by the industry, remain something of a mystery to the public despite investment in labelling, as there are a plethora of different names.

So it will be interesting in a couple of years' time to assess the results. Will these crops be the sole province of farm shops and farmers' markets, simply because volumes remain so small and the niche market so local, they will only be sufficient for the local populace?

Or are some destined ultimately to become as famous as the Jersey Royal which on the island itself everyone agrees was - as the variety is also known - a fluke?

But as the momentum grows, the spring season could lose some of its appeal and may even be at risk altogether.

The fact that the product is now around in various forms and under various descriptions year round is clouding both the original definition and the excitement generated by traditional first arrivals.

Topics