When he visited NCGM in December, the then DEFRA secretary of state Hilary Benn very publicly and firmly backed the EU PFN Scheme and pledged his full support to any UK producers looking to gain the unique status to champion the heritage of their products. Although we don’t yet know where the new government sits on this issue, one thing is for certain - having spent years lagging far behind our European counterparts when it comes to promoting the rich history of our products, interest in the schemes in the UK is finally on the up.
Applications have been approved for several beer, cheese, cider, meat and fish products, among others. However, with exception such as Jersey Royal potatoes - which have had Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status since 1996 - and Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb, which received its PDO status after a five-year wait in February this year, the UK’s fresh produce industry is only just waking up and smelling the potential.
Overall in the UK there are just over 40 PFNs, compared to several hundred in a number of leading producer countries - most notably France and Italy, which have been quick off the mark to protect the heritage of some of their most famous food products.
In the UK, ADAS is the body responsible for handling applications for each of the three separate designations: either a PDO, a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) or a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG).
PDO covers agricultural products and foodstuffs that are produced, processed and prepared in a given geographical area using recognised know-how.
PGI covers agricultural products and foodstuffs closely linked to the geographical area. At least one of the stages of production, processing or preparation takes place in the area.
TSG highlights traditional character, either in the composition or means of production. For example, a TSG application is currently underway for Traditional Bramley Apple Pie Filling.
Most foods intended for human consumption can apply for registration, according to ADAS, including meat, dairy and fish products, honey, fruits and vegetables, beverages made from plant extracts, bread, pasta, pastries, cakes, biscuits and confectionery.
So why has the UK fresh produce industry been so slow to take advantage of these schemes and their potential benefits? Nigel Jenney, chief executive of the Fresh Produce Consortium (FPC), explains: “There are only a few examples to date of UK fresh produce achieving protection under the EU schemes. We can certainly learn a lot from other EU member states about promoting and valuing our food heritage. France and Italy are leading the way, with around 300 of the 800 food products registered with the schemes. With the recent increasing focus on regionalism by some consumers in the UK, there is definitely more potential to be explored by UK fresh produce companies.”
The FPC has made its members aware of the PFN scheme and its benefits, including the legal protection it offers and increased awareness of products both locally and throughout the EU. The consortium can offer advice to any member considering applying for one of the schemes.
“Many consumers want to know more about the origin of their food and to support UK or local growers,” says Jenney. “The EU PFN schemes are one way in which companies can harness the clear regional identity of their high-quality produce and increasing interest in provenance from the consumer. It’s definitely harder to place distinctions on the growing techniques of some types of fresh fruit and vegetables or their production within a specific regional area, but a recent example, the Yorkshire Rhubarb Triangle growers, demonstrates that it can be done.
“DEFRA is keen to encourage UK companies to take advantage of these existing schemes and we feel that it should continue to promote the schemes to UK producers.”
There have been concerns raised over the time taken for applications to be approved by the European Commission,and it is true that patience must become the watchword of anyone wishing to put in an application. However, those who have put in the effort are now reaping the rewards. Below are a few products that have either already achieved PFN status, or are awaiting approval of their application.
Island heritage
Gaining a PDO for Jersey Royal, the UK’s first fresh produce line to receive the status, was a lengthy but ultimately rewarding process. The early kidney-shaped potato, which can be traced back to the original clone first grown in the 1880s, draws its uniqueness from its seed, the Jersey soil, climate, location and growing methods, according to William Church from The Jersey Royal Company.
“Jersey first expressed an interest in 1991 when the regulations were drafted, but they did not come into force until July 1993,” he says. “Jersey then submitted a request via the Policy and Resources Committee. The application was submitted to safeguard the Jersey Royal potato and the island’s interest.”
Church describes the length of time taken for the application as one of the most difficult elements of the whole process, along with “defending your corner against objections raised as to why you should be granted a PFN”.
He says: “The application had to detail the uniqueness of the Jersey Royal - its history, its botanical characteristics and of course, its quality. This had to be followed up by details of the island’s quality control systems.”
The Jersey Royal potato was granted a PDO in 1996 under article 17 of Council Regulation (EEC) No. 2081/92. This protected the island’s, or growers’, interests by establishing that the name could only be used by producers in a clearly defined area - Jersey - that complied with specified rules of production.
Church outlines plenty of advantages to having gone through the rigorous application process. “The benefits derived from the PDO ensure that the product is protected from imitation throughout the EU and it gives the consumer the confidence that they are buying a quality product with a known provenance, ensuring traditional methods survive,” he says. “It gives the producer a unique selling point that differentiates Jersey Royal from other early potatoes. Jersey Royal is therefore recognised as a premium product with added value.”
Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb
The most recent fresh produce addition to the UK’s PFN fold is Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb, grown in the Rhubarb Triangle between Leeds, Wakefield and Bradford. The Yorkshire Rhubarb Growers’ Association achieved the accolade at the end of February after a five-year wait.
The association’s Janet Oldroyd Hulme explains how the idea to apply for the status came about. “For about 15 years now we have taken visitors here, associated with the Tourism and Regeneration Department of Wakefield Council, in an attempt both to boost demand for the crop and increase tourism to the area,” she says. “This has brought me into close contact with the public, who for a number of years have complained to me that they wanted clear differentiation between our product and imported crop. In their words, ‘British tastes better’. They did not want Dutch, only English, and had bought rhubarb, got it home and found it to be Dutch.”
Yorkshire’s soil and climate offer the exact conditions specific to producing a root fit for forcing, according to Oldroyd Hulme. “Over the years, this has proved the best place to carry out the process, so much so that it died out everywhere else - they simply could not get sufficient yields of high-quality rhubarb to cover the high costs associated with this crop,” she says. “Skills have over the years been gathered by the families associated with the production of this crop. Mistakes are very expensive, so get it wrong and the whole crop can be lost. The family growers have passed down variety strains, their skills and secrets of production, which help give the crop the flavour that is associated with Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb.
“Food groups came on visits and brought to my attention that our rhubarb fulfilled all the criteria necessary for accreditation to PFN. I was later approached by the Regional Food Group (RFG) for Yorkshire and Humberside, which pointed me to DEFRA and Food from Britain, which in turn advised me on putting the application together so it was of the correct format and contained all the necessary information that Brussels would expect to see. I then got all the growers together so that the RFG could explain the process.”
Then began the long and difficult task of sourcing the documentary evidence necessary to prove that Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb was being grown. “From the start when I initially spoke with the RFG to gaining accreditation, it took more than six years,” says Oldroyd Hulme.
“Date certificates were received from Brussels on 14 April, although the verdict was announced in time for the Wakefield Food Drink and Rhubarb Festival on 25 February,” she continues. “We are still awaiting grower audits to ensure that they follow the traditional process as written to the letter. This will give the public assurances of production.”
The next step is to get the PDO logo clearly displayed in store. “As forced rhubarb is a seasonal crop, there simply was not enough time to get the new design of the PDO status emblem approved with the supermarkets,” says Oldroyd Hulme. “This can be a slow process and is my current objective, so to see what effect on sales the emblem will have I cannot say until January 2011.
“What I can say is that there was considerable media and public interest, so sales went up dramatically. Being announced in time for the festival when I have most contact with the public, I saw the public reaction firsthand. They physically applauded the decision, which made me very proud. I must say that over recent years it has become very noticeable how much the British, and Yorkshire people in particular, seem to have this affiliation with rhubarb, and do not like to see imports treading in its domain, as it were. I am very thankful for that.
“Hopefully, it will mean that the public will select British product first as it will be clearly labelled - as they initially requested. This will ensure a future for the remaining growers.”
NI Bramley push
Armagh Bramley Apples are currently undergoing the application process to receive a PGI label, explains Fruit Industry Federation (FIF) chairperson Sammy MacNiece.
“Northern Ireland top-fruit growers are rightly proud of their apple-growing heritage, especially in and around County Armagh,” he explains. “In fact, Armagh is known locally as the orchard county, with written records of apple production dating back more than 1,000 years. In addition, Bramley’s Seedling has been associated with this region since the late 19th century, and for at least three generations of farming it has been the predominant apple variety in Armagh. Currently, more than 90 per cent of orchard production is dedicated to Bramley, so it makes sense for us to attempt a formal recognition of this heritage. The EU PFN scheme seemed a logical approach to this end.
“The FIF, which represents all stages in the Northern Ireland supply chain for apple production, submitted the Armagh Bramley application to Europe through the NI Department of Agriculture and Rural Development (DARD), which also provided valuable support and guidance on the submission procedure.
“The application was completed and forwarded in summer 2008. There are a number of recognised review stages in the process and this allows any interested parties in member states to air their opinion and for clarification of any aspect to be requested. We hope that there will be a favourable decision from Brussels by late 2010.
“As you can imagine, a Europe-wide application process that confers unique or specialist status on a foodstuff is bound to be involved. There was a large amount of explanatory information and supporting evidence to be gathered for most sections of the application. We wanted to make a clear argument for the long association between Bramley’s Seedling apple and this region of the British Isles, as well as placing the correct emphasis on how our season, soil and topography uniquely influence the growth of the apple to the benefit of its flavour and flesh quality. This all took time and careful consideration.”
MacNiece is excited about the opportunities that having a PGI will open up. “Approval and recognition of Armagh Bramley will be a marvellous marketing tool,” he says. “Registered growers will be able to promote the crop’s PGI status and processing or packing companies will be in a position to delineate Armagh Bramley from other processed apple varieties.
“Armagh Bramley has a long-established reputation for excellent keeping qualities, which comes from its slower growth in a cooler climate. The heavy, fertile properties of our silt clay soils and the lower summer light intensity here ideally suit the development of this acid green apple. Bramley really is the backbone of the local orchard economy and we aim to have this fact recognised and celebrated.”
Cherry on the top
Looking beyond UK shores, another product that has taken full advantage of the EU’s PFN schemes to be recognised for its provenance and quality is the stalkless Picota cherry, grown in the Jerte Valley region of western Spain.
Pilar Díaz Flores, technical director at the Cereza de Jerte Denomination of Origin (DO) Regulatory Council, explains how the region’s industry clubbed together to work towards the EU standard.
“A group of exporters in the Jerte Valley met and decided there was a need to differentiate the Picota cherry and to develop its profile on the basis of organoleptic qualities and variety name,” she says. “The process began in 1995 with the publication of the first provisional DO guidelines for the Regulatory Council of the Jerte Valley. The first official DO regulations were approved by the Spanish ministry of agriculture on 7 July 1997.
“Regulation number 1485/2007 from the European Commission was made official on 14 December 2007 in the register of PDO. Picota is also recognised as a product of protected geographical origin.”
The trickiest part of the application process was when it came to defining the geographical area of the Jerte Valley, particularly from the point of view of the altitude at which the fruit is grown, according to Díaz Flores. However, she believes it has been well worth the effort. “Having DO status has great benefits for the recognition of Picota cherries in the supply chain, both among suppliers and for consumers,” she explains. “Shoppers see the label with a guarantee of quality of the fruit. The certification has contributed greatly to the increase in sales of Picota cherries, as since 1998 promotional campaigns in our main European markets (including the UK, Germany and Italy) have been launched on the back of this. All the companies involved benefit from these campaigns.”
Long time coming
So for those who have waded through the red tape, what would be their key recommendations for any growers contemplating a PFN application?
Church says: “Decide whether you are going for a PDO, a PGI or a TSG mark. Plan ahead and make sure your application is well researched on history and pay attention to detail. The DEFRA guidance document states that the application process can take up to two years - ours took three to five years, depending upon how you look at it. But in fact, Melton Mowbray Pies has taken about 12 years.”
Perseverance and persistence should certainly be the watchwords of anyone thinking of putting their product forward. Oldroyd Hulme urges those interested not to be afraid of putting in an application, as the help is out there - but above all, she advises patience. “I received a great deal of help not only from the RFG but also DEFRA. Without their help, the application simply would not have been made,” she says. “They made me make time, and I am afraid it had to take precedence over my day-to-day work. The government is pushing for more products to apply for PFNs and I have been helping DEFRA promote the scheme. I was invited to Downing Street for a press conference to showcase PFN. It was Gordon Brown himself who insisted that the event be held at Downing Street.
“DEFRA examined the final application to ensure everything necessary was present and that we had as strong a case as possible given the facts and history. Thank goodness we had.”
There are certainly advantages to be gleaned from the EU’s PFN schemes and it appears the eventual benefits are well worth the wait, offering a decent marketing tool to boost sales and also recognition for growers who have fought hard to secure their foodie heritage. It remains to be seen whether the new DEFRA incumbent will also lend the schemes such public support.
No comments yet