The strength of feeling about the organic movement was interesting to behold at this week’s City Food Lecture. The Soil Association’s policy director Lord Peter Melchett delivered a well-oiled argument for organics taking over the world, only to find that his fellow panellists and a large proportion of the audience - or at least those that asked questions - were far from in accordance with his views.

The audience, invited from all corners of the food industry, was particularly scathing. Lord Melchett was lambasted for his “pious words”, and “high moral tone” and told that organic food is being bought on “a false premise” by a public that has been “persuaded of benefits that don’t exist” as part of a cynical and elaborate “confidence trick”.

I could go on. He was given a rough ride. And it ought to be said that it came from supporters as well as detractors of organics. The majority of the industry continues to invest heavily in constantly raising the non-organic food bar, only to be faced with largely baseless arguments about the merits of a niche brand over their products.

The frustration was evident from, for instance, LEAF farmers unable to command the premium they feel they deserve, and even from the wholefoods sector that feels disadvantaged by the organic standards in the UK.

They should not feel as alone as Lord Melchett probably did on Tuesday evening.