Oh, how times have changed for the mushroom industry. Funnily enough, the first story I ever covered as a reporter was about mushrooms. A party of journalists, lubricated by champagne at 10.30 in the morning, travelled in state down the Thames to have the mysteries of production explained to them on a farm somewhere near Dartford.
At a sumptuous lunch the main complaint from the female members of the group was that consumers wanted button mushrooms, and all they could buy were opens and flats. Shiitaki at that stage was part of a foreign language, and oysters were something for the rich, particularly if they came from Whitstable.
Those were the good times. There were other similar trips deep into caves, somewhere near Buxton, I think, meeting growers - many of whom had held senior RAF rank - as well as trips that finished up in wine lodges near Bristol. The statistic which stuck in my head all those years ago was that mushrooms were valued at around £1 per lb, and the UK was self-sufficient.
Erosion in the early days could hardly be blamed on the multiples. The mushroom industry inevitably became one of the first within horticulture to follow the path towards the increasing opportunity to serve what would become giant customers.
The ability to provide a popular and versatile product that is still mainly consumed in the winter months but available year round, soon spearheaded strong interest first from the Irish, followed by the Dutch.
It may be dwelling on history, but even then I believe the stage was set for a battle, which over the years has for many been both long and financially bloody. Inevitably, in recent years the struggle has resulted in consolidation and has now reached the point where even the larger groups - many of which are owned outside these shores - have found it difficult to survive.
To its credit, the industry at large responded to try and stem the tide. Last year the HDC-sponsored report conducted by Warwick University recommended better marketing practices and held out the hope of automation to reduce production costs further. Hopefully this will have some impact. There are also signs that confidence still continues with the voluntary support of a promotional campaign which I am delighted to hear is being repeated again this year.
The publication of the latest Plimsoll analysis, however, reviewed last week in FPJ, indirectly poses the question as to whether it is too little and too late for the UK industry to mushroom back. The crux of the issue remains that retail prices have remained static, according to Warwick, for six years, although total volumes have risen.
Retailers have widened the offer using a range of packs and products, which are virtually tailor made for every consumer requirement. Any gaps are being filled by eastern Europe, particularly Poland. What is clear is that the mushroom industry has already become international, and there are no longer any soft options ahead - for anyone.
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