As the rise in consumption figures suggest, asparagus is becoming more than just a seasonal treat for the privileged few.
As reported last week, the widespread publicity campaign being rolled out for the British season has been steadily raising awareness of the product. Yet, as well as working hard at getting more product on the shelves, growers and suppliers have been experimenting with different varieties and techniques to keep the product fresh and interesting.
“UK production is set to rise dramatically to meet summer demand and serious efforts are being made by growers to expand the period of the UK season,” says Jamie Petchell, asparagus project leader at Hargreaves Plants in Spalding.
Existing producers are looking to expand their production capabilities, he says. “At the moment there are around 100 asparagus growers in the UK with an average area of 10 hectares.
“Typical marketable yields are in the order of half a tonne a hectare. Although this still gives growers a reasonable return, the potential to push these boundaries is clearly there.”
The UK is also becoming responsible for more of the production process, says Petchell. “Sales of crowns to UK growers is at an all time high,” he says. “Instead of sourcing plants overseas and being unsure of their pedigree, we are now growing crowns in the UK. This year we are totally sold out.”
Producer and supplier Barfoots of Botley, will be devoting particular attention to asparagus in the next couple of years, according to Peter Atkins, the company’s head of supply chain. “We started just with English growers - our own and other local producers in Kent. Now we have around 200 acres of production and have started importing significant volumes from Peru, Argentina and Spain to supplement our supplies for the rest of the year.”
According to Petchell, since gras has become a year-round product, approximately 1,800t of the total volume consumed is imported to the UK from these key supply sources, as well as Thailand.
“This exciting development in asparagus is well reflected by the UK supermarkets’ acceptance of the product in increasing volumes and significant changes in presentation and packaging,” he says.
As one of the six main supporters of the British Asparagus Season campaign, Barfoots takes great pride in promoting the value of home-grown gras, Atkins says. “The AGA (Asparagus Growers Association) does a fantastic job at flagging up the UK produce as being better, fresher and having a stronger flavour and I believe we should restore it with some kind of premium, not necessarily price but a way of distinguishing it from the rest.”
While consumption is increasing, there is still work to be done at raising awareness of the product and this will only happen by maintaining consistent supplies of both UK-grown and imported produce, Atkins claims. “Retailers still have a tremendous way to go to introduce the product to new people. The past couple of years have shown that this is achieved best in the UK season and, through the campaign, we expect to pick up new customers each year. The UK season gives us a chance to re-launch the product every year.”
However, consistency is the key to long-term success, he continues. “The supermarkets have taught us that when something is on the shelf year-round there is much more growth.” Therefore, rather than resenting the competition from imported produce, British growers should accept the symbiotic relationship between the two commodities.
In accordance with this notion, extending the British season as long as possible, to expand on consumer recognition of the product, can only be beneficial whatever the method, says Atkins. “If we are able to put the flag on British Asparagus earlier in stores while maintaining the quality and freshness, then using polytunnels is worthwhile. If people expect asparagus to arrive on April 21 and then the next year it arrives on May 7 and the year after May 11, they will forget it but if you keep it arriving at the same time they will start to remember it and polytunnels are a way to achieve that.”
John Chinn, manager of Cobrey Farms, agrees that asparagus can learn from the success soft fruit growers have had using such methods. Having extended their season from six weeks to five months, the use of Spanish tunnels has become virtually mandatory for strawberry growers, he says. “Led by new varieties, plant populations have almost doubled over the last five years. Yields and fruit quality have improved dramatically and this has slashed the cost of production per kilogram despite the huge investment per hectare.”
And a similar change is on its way in the asparagus industry, Chinn claims. “Research work in France suggests that earlier harvest, improved quality spears and significant yield increases can all result from the use of thermic polythene crop covers in green asparagus production.”
By contrast, Richard Kitchen, of Kitchen Garden Produce, refuses to use polytunnels, and suggests producing store temperatures artificially is unlikely to allow for the same quality of produce as natural conditions. “Extending the season before the usual start should only be for small volumes as a taster to entice people for the main season,” says Kitchen. “The main killers for the crop are weeds and greed and if you cut way beyond June 21 you will not produce a good crop.”
John Clement of Tuddenham Hall is similarly in favour of conventional methods for ethical and economical reasons. “I considered the idea five years ago and dismissed it, “Clement says. “I think there is enough plastic in the countryside. Asparagus will come when it comes. Why can’t we just let it happen? Also we would have to do the whole 300 acres because supermarkets would insist on having it for all their stores not just a selection, and it would be too expensive but I don’t think it’s necessary.” He says British growers should concern themselves with their ample window of opportunity and let exporters concern themselves with the rest of the year.
However, many UK suppliers are looking to form relationships with exporters in order to improve the overall quality and varieties of gras available.
Asparagus International Limited’s general manager, Peter Knight, believes growers in Peru will take advantage of their climate by expanding their varietal range. Having recently visited the lead producing country, Knight says: “I have the distinct impression that the vanguard producers see huge possibilities in front of them. They are restricted to two old-hat varieties UC157 and Idalea. I have persuaded a number to try a range of the Jersey varieties we handle. The plan is to have an area of new varieties large enough to make commercial judgements in Peru and sample worldwide customers.”
Petchell believes the UK will soon be benefiting from a much broader selection of produce. “Until now the industry has not identified and marketed varieties but this is all set to change,” he says. There are currently six varieties on sale in the UK: Gijnlim, Backlim, Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Guelph Millennium and Pacific Purple, although not all of these are grown in substantial volumes in the UK. “Mostly we are eating Dutch varieties, but a string of improved material is on offer from breeders across the world,” says Petchell.
Hargreaves has around 200 new improved varieties under production at its Norfolk based trials location and is exclusively testing material from New Zealand, Canada and Italy.
“We are expecting that a number of buyers from multiples and produce marketing companies will visit our site this year and onwards,” Petchell says. “There are some new players moving into asparagus production. They and existing asparagus growers are expected to show a keen interest in improved material. They can sample everything and see just what improvements are available.
“I am confident that we will see asparagus sold by variety name and production source, just like many soft fruits. It will enhance UK sales and keep a premium price for home grown quality spears.”
Atkins says companies such as Barfoots will always be looking out for new varieties which have tighter heads and improved eatability. However, being a perennial product, asparagus varieties tend to stay around for several years. “The problem is you can end up with so many varieties that the product loses its identity as has happened with some products. There is not that great a differential that a customer will notice in the different varieties. What they are always interested in is a good taste and a good shelf life.
Purple asparagus has been talked about around the industry for some time and Petchell believes it has great potential. “Some UK multiples are already testing the latest purple types. They are much sweeter as a vegetable and make a lovely colour addition to fresh crunchy salad.”
Hargreaves Plants is working closely with the Crop and Food Research Institute of New Zealand, which has researched the sweetness rating of green and purple asparagus. Crop and Food measured the amounts of glucose, fructose and sucrose in segments of purple Pacific Passion and green Limbras spears to investigate the durable sweetness of each variety. The results showed that the purple spears had higher sweetness indices in main axis tissues at harvest, and in all segments after harvest, making them significantly sweeter than the green spears overall.
Atkins says this may be true of imported produce but he doubts that significant volumes will be viable from the UK conditions. “Our technologists are not very enthusiastic. Purple asparagus can be a sign of a cold spell in spring which indicates a toughness and it doesn’t look any better when it is cooked,” he says. “There is a risk in introducing new varieties if there is no real improvement to the eating quality.”
According to Chinn, white asparagus is also being introduced in Europe. “Research and commercial practice by Teboza BV in the Netherlands shows that white asparagus can be harvested into July as long as these long seasons are alternated with short season harvests.” Chinn is investigating the possibility of developing it further at Cobrey Farms, he says.
Despite these continual advances, asparagus is still at risk during production, according to Syngenta Vegetable Technical manager, Jon Ogborn. “Syngenta recognises that as a relatively new crop to the UK there are limited crop protection options available to growers,” he says. “In order to rectify this, the company is commencing work with the AGA in order to identify new solutions for weed and disease control. We are confident that we will soon be able to provide the grower with some very effective new tools in their crop protection armoury.”
Informing its members of all the latest growing methods and techniques available is one of the AGA’s principal roles. Having just signed up to its services, independent grower Roger Derryman says he has been thoroughly impressed with the support he has already received. Derryman has managed a dairy farm in Cornwall for many years but has embarked on a whole new venture. He has just put in two acres of two-year old Dutch crowns which will be ready for harvesting next year.
“My father grew it in the farm garden and we always enjoyed it,” says Derryman. “The milk is marketed through the large co-operative, Milk Link, and we thought it would be nice to try something which lets us get closer to the customers.” Derryman and his wife felt there was a niche in the market which is very keen on sourcing locally. They plan to distribute their asparagus to local restaurants and shops and possibly over the internet.
“We are looking forward to being able to say our asparagus was cut this morning, sold this afternoon and will be eaten tomorrow,” Derryman says. “It will be three years before we get the full crop but it is really quite exciting. If we are successful in the market place we might consider expanding but we will only ever sell it locally.”
He says the couple will be using this season to visit other farms and take advantage of their fellow growers’ expertise before having to cut their own crop next year.
No comments yet