The government has urged the Soil Association not to strip airfreighted fruit and veg of its certification, arguing that exporting communities in developing nations would find such a move “disastrous”.

Trade and international development minister Gareth Thomas said: “We oppose a general ban [on airfreighted organic imports], and we would be pretty worried by a selective ban too, as it would penalise the very people it helps. Our view is, the Soil Association should leave things as they are.” A lot of work is being done on carbon footprints, he said. “We hope to build a standardised system within an international agreement.”

But Soil Association policy director Peter Melchett hit back: “The government has grossly oversimplified this issue. A year ago green beans were a symbol of environmental responsibility, and it is the Soil Association that has taken the lead by starting a valuable public debate.”

The association’s standards board began a three-month public consultation this summer on the issue, amid public worry over “food miles”.