The farmers market phenomenon has been viewed with a certain degree of cynicism from within the fresh produce industry. But there is a growing band of converts in the UK growing community that has seen the benefits of a shorter supply chain, and the reduced headaches and increased control that comes with it.
The national farmers market network of 400 is playing a significant role in the regeneration of town centres and market squares across the UK. In the capital, London, the local association organises 12 weekly markets. The demand exists for many more - from farmers, customers and local and national government. One dignitary was quoted as saying that it has become a matter of civic pride that a town has a farmers’ market and a swimming baths.
The power of farmers’ markets as a political tool has not been lost on councillors - and even the Mayor - who see the potential benefits to their respective communities.
They also see, of course, the opportunity to back locally-grown produce. It is stipulated that stallholders must grow, raise or produce everything they sell, including ingredients in processed food. The food and drink sold in London’s farmers’ markets is produced within a 100-mile radius of the M25 - which is a larger catchment area than is generally the case, but indicative of the recognition of the size and population of London. Some farms, including P&J Clarke, are actually within the M25 and according to Cohen, wherever possible farmers are sourced from within 50 miles.
The locality of the sources of course fits snugly with prominent media issues such as food miles, freshness and regional sourcing. Research by the Institute of Grocery Distribution has shown a genuine interest from consumers in buying locally-produced fare. The supermarkets have, of course, taken this on board to varying degrees, but the farmers’ markets have a strong story to tell in this respect.
Markets, says Cohen, provide a direct sales outlet for farmers, increasing farm incomes without the need for middlemen; the farmer earns the full retail price. “The customer benefits from a regular supply of fresh, seasonal, locally grown produce. Customers cite freshness and quality as the two most important virtues of the farmers’ market,” she adds. “Most people remain blissfully unaware of food miles, but they are still very supportive of British farmers.”
Fruits and vegetables represent an estimated 30 per cent of the produce sold through London’s 12 markets. P&J Clarke produces an extensive range of vegetables and a select fruit offer for sale through the markets, but there are other users who concentrate solely on one crop, specialising in an offer of several varieties of potato for instance. “One of the problems is that we don’t have enough growers to stock the number of markets we would like to open.”
There are a number of factors affecting produce availability, but Clarke believes more growers should take the plunge. “It is hard work, but if you are willing to work directly with the end consumer you get a very good return for your time and money,” says Clarke. “It is not a route that will suit all growers, and although it is possibly most suited to the small and medium sized business, there is a mix of large and small producers involved. On a really good day, I can take £1,000 or more and we regularly take more than £500 a day.”
Clarke himself still deals with supermarkets, but not when he has his producers’ hat on. “A lot of smaller growers have come to the conclusion that they no longer have a place in the supermarket supply chain. Farmers’ markets are one of the alternatives.”
Cohen says: “We are not dominated by multinational business. Take a look at the principles behind the development of farmers’ markets - as long as they remain in place we will continue to be successful. It is important to remember that fresh food consumption is higher in the London area than in many other parts of the country, and London also has a largely affluent consumer group and the required infrastructure for markets to thrive. The nature of London of course is that there is a wide demographic range, and we are able to stock products that would rarely be available to them otherwise.”
The opportunities for new product development are endless and because of the limited volumes involved, the risks are less prohibitive, says Clarke. “If one of the customers at a market asks for something and it seems like a reasonable request, I can buy the seed in and give it a go without having to make huge investment. I sold £500 worth of sloes over Christmas for instance. I don’t suppose there are too many outlets for that in London.”
Although the revelation leaves Clarke wondering whether he is in fact attracting a fan-base amongst the gin-swilling alcoholic community of London, it does illustrate a point. “Direct contact with the customer is the best consumer research you can have. The comments you receive back from them can make a big difference and - if you reverse it - the chance to educate the consumer is also invaluable. “The local greengrocer was able to carry out these roles in the past, but as we know there aren’t many of them left,” says Clarke.
Cohen says, however, that farmers’ markets, far from taking away yet more business from the independent retail store sector, provide an excellent support mechanism for small food businesses in their vicinity. There are many products - such as the number one selling produce line bananas - that UK farmers’ markets by definition can’t sell. “We consistently stimulate interest and increase footfall where our markets are run,” she says.
One of the criticisms levelled at the farmers’ market concept from within the industry has been a perceived lack of a rigorous quality standard. Not so, says Cohen. The rules handed out to all producers stipulate that they are responsible for complying with all laws and regulations regarding the production, preparation, labeling, display, storage, sampling and sale of goods. All producers are researched before they are accepted as market traders. They are then subject to scheduled visits to the farm or place of production to verify their compliance with the rules. Refusal to allow reasonable visits to the property in question will result in suspension or expulsion from the market.
“We take this matter very seriously,” says Cohen. “We always endeavour to visit every producer before an application is accepted, although in certain circumstances word of mouth is acceptable at first - particularly when the recommendation comes from an established and trustworthy user of our markets. No farmer waits very long for an audit though, and every farm is audited once every year.
“Every producer has to hold adequate insurance to trade with the public and must agree to accept full liability for any claims, losses, damages, injury, charges, or exposure arising from trading with us. They must also agree to exchange information about their businesses with Trading Standards and Environmental Health officers.”
The complexity of the growers’ business has some bearing on the inspection process. But all aspects of the business that can have an impact on the quality and safety of the food they bring to market are in the firing line, including health and safety and pesticide regimes.
The distinction between good food markets, such as the highly successful retail market at Borough, and farmers’ markets is important to Cohen. “They are not markets for growers, although some of the people who trade there are growers. They are outlets for marketers of speciality foods,” she says.
The farmers’ market is by no means a new idea in the UK and the country’s wholesale markets of course had their own dedicated area for farmers to trade until relatively recently. Producers selling on the stones at Covent Garden is an image of the dim and distant past now though. Authorities at Rungis in Paris, where tenants can still rely on a significant retail customer base, have invested in new facilities for their farming traders - it is safe to say there is no hope of that happening in the UK. In the US, farmers’ markets have developed over more than 25 years and have a massive presence across the country.
With many routes to markets closed off, Clarke is glad he had the foresight to commit to the farmers’ markets when he did. He still supplies wholesale markets, but he is clear on one thing. “Would I go back to supplying the supermarkets? No, I wouldn’t. I would miss the direct contact with customers and the level of feedback. A grower that sells through a farmers’ market and also deals with supermarkets is actually in a very good position to advise their bigger customers about consumer attitudes to the produce they grow. The research that comes out of supermarkets has been distilled by the time it reaches the grower and inevitably is affected by individual biases.”
Constant exposure, both good and bad, ensures that food will always be high in the psyche of the UK consumer - and for that the fresh produce industry should be truly thankful. There are already many producers in this country that have cause for gratitude towards farmers’ markets. The list is likely to swell.
GLA SEES CAPITAL GAINS
Jenny Jones, deputy mayor of London, is campaigning for an increase in the number of London’s farmers’ markets. She has recently been appointed as chairperson of the London Food Commission, which will deal with all food policy issues and is funded by the London Development Agency.
Jones spent a lot of time researching the farmers’ markets last summer and has written a report “Building the bridges between farmers and London shoppers”. She said: “Farmers’ markets are relatively small-scale in terms of the number of London shoppers they reach. Given favourable local planning, the markets will grow quickly, becoming a popular feature in Londoners’ lives.”
The proposal is still in its infancy, but Jones aims to campaign for a market to take place each weekend in a primary retail area. She will lobby private and public sector bodies, to promote the benefits for the local communities that arise from the growers markets. “Many of the markets I visited were set up in car parks or public spaces. More markets could easily be established in areas that have few local shops.”
One example is Pimlico’s farmers’ market, held every Saturday in Orange Square. The square was previously under-utilised and the area offered residents little selection in food shops.
Local councils are hoping that the markets will breath life back into forgotten shopping districts. Nana Mancell, press officer at the GLA says: “West Ealing’s Famers’ Market has helped regenerate the area - the market has brought back local shoppers people and given a great boost to the retailers.”
Farmers’ markets ultimately fall under the jurisdiction of the local boroughs, but with Jones and the GLA-Green Party supporting the movement, London’s market may soon “mirror the high-profile markets in New York”.
No comments yet