The wholesale trade has long been integral to the supply of food in the capital but, for some time now, the six major markets have struggled to get the recognition they deserve as the shape of the sector has continued to evolve.
But the wholesale trade is determined not to be left behind and is keen to highlight what it offers. Traditional markets are still very much at the heart of the city, providing everyone with the opportunity to buy fresh, local produce at reasonable prices, reeling in shoppers to boost local communities and creating a sense of vibrancy in town centres.
London’s six wholesale markets - New Covent Garden, New Spitalfields, Borough, Western International, as well as meat market Smithfield and fish market Billingsgate - act as a backbone for much of the independent retail and foodservice sectors, as well as traditional street markets.
Between them, the markets are home to more than 680 individual traders who in turn supply thousands of customers, from hotels and restaurants, schools and prisons, to florists, market traders and corner shops. Together, they have an impressive joint turnover of more than £2 billion.
There is no better time to push markets into the spotlight, in the wake of three government reports on the issues - one from the Cabinet Office published in July, the London Assembly’s study on street markets released in January and the Greater London Authority’s (GLA) review of wholesale markets in June 2007 - all at a time when consumers are becoming increasingly aware of healthy eating and are trying to cut their spending.
But there is still no clear vision or framework for markets, so those involved have taken it upon themselves to formulate a plan of action and put markets in the spotlight this month.
The activities over the next four weeks will culminate in the first London Markets’ Symposium at City Hall on October 23, where the Association of London Markets will be re-launched as a body to represent the common interests of wholesalers, as well as other retail, farmers’ and street markets across the 33 boroughs.
The event will be supported by the National Association of British Market Authorities (NABMA), the World Union of Wholesale Markets and London Farmers’ Markets.
Rosie Boycott, the newly appointed chair of London Food, will speak at the event. “The wholesale markets of London allow consumers to access locally produced, top-quality food at affordable prices,” she says. “Raising the profile of these markets and encouraging businesses across London to use them must continue, so that the restaurants and shops where Londoners buy their food carry on offering fantastic variety.
“The London Food board strongly supports London Markets’ month. The markets play a key role in the food industry of London and we are keen to work with them all - retail farmers’, wholesale and street markets - to encourage more sustainable practices within the food system.”
The presentations will cover the issues from national and economic perspectives, as well as the regeneration aspect and the reality of day-to-day business on the sites.
The speakers will include Murad Qureshi, a member of the London Assembly, Krys Zasada, policy development manager at NABMA, Mike Brooks from Wandsworth Council, and Gary Marshall, chairman of the Covent Garden Tenants’ Association.
A number of key borough contacts who deal with markets across the capital or are interested in the food agenda have been invited to the symposium to help give direction to a crucial but, until now, overlooked sector in the London economy.
A guide to the London wholesale markets will be sent out to a range of decision-makers, containing a full list of activities, as well as information about the impact of markets on the capital.
Helen Evans, information officer at New Covent Garden, has had a hands-on role in organising the event. “The idea has changed a bit since the beginning because we are aware there is quite a lot going on and suddenly it has all taken off,” she says. “We want to raise the profile of markets among policy-makers and what we are doing can be mirrored across the country.
“For most councils, markets are an income stream but they don’t necessarily recognise this. But we are not just an income stream, we are important for job creation and food access, and we need councils to take this on board. They need to do more than issue the licences and collect the rent. If you look at Borough or Colombia Road [Flower Market], the markets there have given the area a real identity.
“We want to open up the Association of London Markets so that it does not include just the six main wholesale sites, but retail markets as well. In the past, it has lobbied on issues such as the congestion charge and acted as a forum for debate, and now we want to open it up so that it can represent our common interests.
“The spirit of co-operation between the markets has been really good,” she insists. “There is, of course, competition between us but there is also the recognition that all the markets are complementary because our customer profiles are very different. Everyone wants the best for their market, but together we are stronger and it is important for all of us that what we are doing is recognised.”
The vital role that markets play is increasingly being recognised by the government, and the London wholesale trade wants to capitalise on this progress and keep up the momentum.
The All Party Parliamentary Markets Group concluded in its policy framework released last year that “successful markets matter in all their forms - whether they are wholesale, specialist, farmers’, street or covered markets, they contribute to the social, environmental and economic well-being of the nation”.
A GLA report on wholesale markets published in the same year concluded that they continue to play a valuable role in the capital and the wider area.
This was followed by the first report on street markets in the capital, put together by Dee Doocey, chair of the Economic Development, Culture, Sport and Tourism Committee, earlier this year. The survey, released in January, showed that there are around 180 retail markets in London alone - at least 63 more than 10 years ago and more than twice as many as was previously thought. The markets range from small set-ups to large-scale operations, with some doing much better than others. “London enjoys undeniable economic, social and cultural benefits from its markets,” says Doocey. “They supply the people of London - especially those on low incomes - with affordable, high-quality food. They attract jobs and income to the local economy.”
Each of the reports have been welcomed by market operators, who are keen to see the results formulated into a concrete plan for action.
David Smith, director of markets at the Corporation of London, maintains that the six markets intend to communicate more with each other in the future. He oversees New Spitalfields, Smithfield and Billingsgate, but is keen to work with others to make the most of London Markets’ Month.
“We had our first liaison meeting 18 months ago and what came out quickly is that we don’t do enough to promote ourselves as a really important part of the food chain,” Smith says. “The London Food Strategy, for example, had missed out wholesale and retail markets, but they are a significant part of the food chain. But what we talked about got a movement of its own. We realised we needed to make sure that people know what we do, in terms of providing fresh, healthy food for people, in terms of economic development and in terms of employment.
“Next year, we will look at markets as a whole including retail, street and farmers’ markets, but we are not being exclusive at the moment. I think it will build slowly.”
A number of activities have been lined up over the next four weeks, with all six wholesale markets having a hand in the organisation of the events. The initiative has got off to a promising start and all those taking part are committed to expanding it next year and beyond. FPJ will be catching up with key figures from the four fresh produce markets - New Covent Garden, New Spitalfields, Borough and Western International - over the next four weeks.
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