I was delighted to see that the UK and Irish mushroom industries have found the key to unlocking EU promotional joint funding, which will provide a £2.2 million opportunity to boost sales over the next three years.

It was the late 1950s when I was introduced to the mysteries of a crop that grows in the dark and is surrounded by myths such as production being affected by the moon. Journalists were taken down the Thames by boat to a converted Victorian barracks. My subsequent forays into the horticultural industry proved that the industry was miles ahead when it came to self-promotion through its very active Mushroom Growers’ Association.

It was, however, a different marketing scenario. Firstly, the UK was virtually self-sufficient, with several producers still identified by their post-war military ranks. White button mushrooms were becoming the fashion rather than “flats and opens”, which took another 20 years to come into popularity. And wholesale markets were the sales conduit.

To its credit, while the crop was not the easiest to promote because of perishability and virtual lack of branding, the marketing metamorphosis continued.

There were a stream of slogans over the years such as “Mushrooms Make the Meal” and the birth of Monty Mushroom, a character created to back a thriving recipe and information service voluntarily funded through a levy on mushroom spawn.

Such instruments also helped change consumer habits, particularly the recognition that mushrooms could be eaten raw in salads, which increased summer sales.

Today the industry has changed beyond recognition. Irish companies have invested heavily in English production, and there is increased competition not only from the Emerald Isle, but also Holland, and if the price is right, Poland.

The range has been extended to include chestnut types and most recently an increase in what is regarded as exotics gathered from the four corners of the earth.

Multiples call the shots, and a trip round any store reflects the importance of the crop. Its strength lies in being available every day of the year, and having so many culinary uses is a real strength.

Looking to the future, I hope the latest venture aided by Brussels will drive the industry forward again. Generic campaigns - because a concept rather than a brand - have not always achieved the impact that its contributors hope.

In fact there are cases where, in my opinion, they have been a complete waste of money. There have, of course, been exceptions such as Go to Work on an Egg, Drinka Pinta Milk A Day and the Bramley, asparagus, berry and Jersey Royal potato PR messages. So with the right approach the industry has plenty to play for.

David Shapley is a horticultural journalist and former editor of FPJ. To appear in this column email editorial@fpj.co.uk.

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