An array of home-grown fruit and vegetables will come into their own over the coming weeks and at this time of year, the ongoing debate over the importance of buying British and the role of imported lines invariably shifts into the spotlight.
DEFRA defines seasonal food as “food that is outdoor grown or produced during the natural growing or production period for the country or region where it is produced”. Crucially, the government adds that “this applies to seasonal food produced both in the UK and overseas”.
Official figures maintain that the UK is 74 per cent self-sufficient in agricultural terms and that the majority of imported fruit and vegetables are varieties that cannot be grown in the UK.
This time last year, MasterChef presenter and celebrity greengrocer Gregg Wallace launched the Eat Seasonably campaign at the Re:fresh Conference to promote British fruit and vegetables, as part of a not-for-profit project spearheaded by Dame Fiona Reynolds and B&Q chairman Ian Cheshire. He told the trade at the time: “This is something that I have been banging on about for a long, long time. I am not suggesting for one minute that we turn our back on imported fruit and vegetables - I very much enjoy a slice of lemon in a G&T - but I want us to use the best we can in its season and embrace British in our season. I know it is controversial and it is not the way we shop.
“I remember looking forward to the first strawberries and asparagus of the season - it was a treat, and I want people to have this again. I would just like to see us highlight the British seasonal calendar over the year and eat as much seasonal and local food as we can.”
But industry players at the event did not agree with these views, with one accusing Wallace of living in a “fantasy land”, while others stressed it was important not to “demonise” imported produce, which they insisted “is still in season in the country in which it is produced”.
So how can consumers be educated to see the benefits of enjoying home-grown fruit and vegetables at their seasonal best? And how can the trade boost overall consumption, whether produce is grown at home or overseas?
Nigel Jenney, chief executive of the Fresh Produce Consortium (FPC), maintains that UK consumers enjoy a wide variety of high-quality, affordable fresh produce year round, irrespective of its country of origin. “While for some consumers there is a strong intention to support British growers and to buy locally, our diverse diet reflects the fact that we live in a multi-cultural society and wish to enjoy the wide range of fresh produce available to us,” he says. “Most consumers have some understanding of what is meant by ‘in season’, but often think that only British produce can be in season. In addition, this is confused by other considerations with regard to sustainable production. We have seen some ridiculous claims about what is or isn’t in season, even to the point of ignoring the fact that imported fresh produce is in season in its country of origin.”
A number of myths and misconceptions have built up throughout this long-standing debate, in many cases leaving consumers uncertain about what to buy and why. And even though the push to buy British is well intentioned and in many cases springs from the industry itself, it does not always sit comfortably in what has become a global industry.
A spokesperson from the southern hemisphere insists that there are plenty of cases where British produce “isn’t the best-tasting option, nor the most friendly to the environment”.
“Buy British is a sensible marketing message and it’s understandable that retailers and producers are encouraging it,” he says. “The onus is on producers and exporters from other countries of origin to promote the relative benefits of their own produce for consumption by UK shoppers.
“The media is partly responsible for pushing an idealised image of food and perpetuating myths about our food - such as fresh produce generally being flown around the world, when it actually is more likely to travel by seafreight. However, it is also the trade’s responsibility to ensure that shoppers - and indeed the media - have the correct information about the range of fresh produce on sale today.”
But these vital statistics are not easy to create or decipher. According to DEFRA research, for example, some imported fruit and vegetables are grown in less greenhouse gas-intensive ways than the same products in the UK, with savings from greater efficiency outweighing the negative impacts of additional transport - a message somewhat at odds with some well-established marketing messages encouraging consumers to buy British.
“The FPC believes that there is no need to restrict choice by excluding imported produce on the basis of its carbon footprint,” says Jenney.“Instead, the carbon footprint of the whole product supply chain should be taken into account and consumers provided with meaningful advice on which to make informed decisions.
“While eating seasonally appears to be popular with consumers, DEFRA has admitted that the direct environmental benefit is comparatively modest and has even considered removing it from its list of 12 changes consumers can make towards a sustainable lifestyle.”
But how can the industry increase consumer understanding of seasonality?
Pam Lloyd from Pam Lloyd PR, which handles promotions for the likes of British peas and beans and Tenderstem broccoli from the UK and overseas, stresses that consumers cannot and will not be ‘taught’ about these issues. “For the past decade, consumers have been bombarded with messages encouraging them to buy, cook and eat seasonal and local produce,” she says. “The public is now grasping the message of buy British. By contrast, communication campaigns from international fresh produce brand owners or importers are more isolated, with no banner under which to operate.
“I believe that the positive messages behind international produce now need to be conveyed through intelligent marketing communications. There is no need to stop talking about British produce - it has its rightful place in the market - but there is room for more information about the food we eat.
“Growers near and far can innovate and develop new opportunities that also give them a powerful platform to communicate,” says Lloyd. “In the consumer’s mind at least, there’s room for everyone at the fixture.
“If we can intelligently turn up the volume on the stories of international growers and their crops, we can bring some balance to the information that the consumer receives.”
Jenney agrees that it is “essential” for consumers to understand when fresh produce is in season, regardless of its origin. “There are concerns that well-intentioned moves to encourage people to eat ‘fresh produce in season’ are interpreted mischievously as being solely UK fresh produce,” he says. “This could lead to a reduction in consumption as consumers’ choice becomes restricted, impacting on economic growth here in the UK, as well as in developing countries that are reliant on agriculture.”
One of the most forward-thinking categories has embraced this concept with a pioneering promotional campaign that stretches across the main sub-categories and some of the major producing countries.
The Seasonal Berries campaign is a radical soft-fruit initiative to encourage consumers to eat the likes of British, Spanish and Chilean berries when they are at their best. The UK industry is working with Spanish and Chilean partners, including Foods from Spain, Freshuelva and Asoex, to promote the concept of seasonality, without diluting the emotional relationship that UK consumers have with soft fruit. The team is in talks with the Egyptian, Mexican and South African industries to get them on board with the activities.
Laurence Olins, chairman of British Summer Fruits, is keen to move away from the concept of British-grown versus imported produce in a bid to improve consumer understanding of the seasons.
“I don’t see British versus imported as a correct statement,” he explains. “We work with both and the two fit closely together, rather than fighting each other. There is a time and a place for all suppliers.
“But I think the concept of ‘seasonal’ produce is, for consumers, most associated with home-grown lines and they would translate that into meaning ‘British’. It will take much longer for them to understand that produce is seasonal and can be in season, but not grown in the UK.
“What we have done in the berry category has not been copied by other categories, yet it could be. We make sure that consumers are aware of our offer 12 months of the year, highlight what is in season, when and where it comes from.
“This model could be followed by other categories if they are prepared to work with their off-season counterparts. We had to convince our British growers that this approach was going to be good for them. Initially, we started a Winter Berries campaign and two years later, we introduced Seasonal Berries as one name for the whole initiative.
“Most companies handle both British and imported lines, so why don’t other categories do the same thing as we have on soft fruit rather than complaining?” he continues. “The model can be replicated anywhere; it just involves talking to your opposite numbers in other producing countries.
“But it will always be much easier for British producers to promote their products in the UK; they will always have the louder voice. Imported produce will always have an uphill battle but, of course, it still has a very important role in the market.”
No comments yet