Gary Marshall of Covent Garden Tenants’ Association believes a post-Covid shift in eating habits is working to the advantage of UK wholesale markets

Chair of the Covent Garden Tenants’ Association (CGTA) Gary Marshall says Britain’s wholesale markets have a bright future as demand for high-quality fresh produce grows.

New Covent Garden Market (NCGM) has seen turnover increase from roughly £650 million to £750m over the past decade.

Marshall, who owns NCGM trader Bevington Salads, spoke to Fruitnet MD Chris White on his Fruitbox podcast. He is optimistic for the future of UK wholesale markets following the growth of greengrocers, farm shops and delicatessens during and after the pandemic, as well as rising demand for high-quality restaurant food and experiences.

Nevertheless, he emphasised that appreciation for high-quality produce is still lacking in the UK compared to Europe.

“People must start to appreciate fresh produce a lot better in this country,” Marshall said. “In Europe, they all appreciate it. What we expect in this country is cheap, cheap cheap. What we should be saying, and what New Covent Garden promotes, is quality, quality, quality, taste, taste, taste.” 

The CGTA chair took the opportunity to hail the success of NCGM and other UK wholesale markets in recent years.

“Between them, wholesale markets across the country turn over £3-4 billion,” he said. “New Covent Garden Market does £750 million, and between the three markets in London, you’re talking about well over £1bn of trade.”

He added: “The quality of produce found on wholesale markets across the country is second to none, and the envy of Europe.”

Marshall pointed out, however, that some British growers have been slower to recognise that NCGM insists upon premium quality produce – something that European suppliers have generally been more reliable for.

The Bevington Salads boss believes Covid has fundamentally changed people’s eating habits – a shift that is working to the advantage of wholesale markets, which he believes offer higher-quality produce than the supermarkets.

“Everybody wants quality, continuity and service,” he said. “I think a lot of that comes from where people had to stay indoors for a long time, they had to learn how to cook again, they had to look at product again.

“People started going to their local greengrocer, who was an expert. They started going to their local farm shops, who were experts. They got a little bit of understanding about what goes into these products.”

Marshall also emphasised the central importance of the foodservice sector for UK wholesale markets, especially New Covent Garden, which switched its attention to predominantly supplying the restaurant sector in the 1990s. 

Commenting on the ongoing redevelopment of NCGM, he said the process has been challenging for traders. He criticised the developers for creating delays by not initially listening to their needs. However, he said that when the market is complete in four to five years’ time, it will “see us through well into the next 25-50 years”.