When it comes to English apples Waitrose buyers have closer connections than most customers realise.

Apart from its fiercely guarded reputation for quality fruit, its buyers have the unique experience of sourcing from their own fruit farm on the 3,750 acre Leckford Estate deep in the Hampshire countryside.

Indeed the multiple, part of the John Lewis partnership, is so proud of the connection that its prepacks carry their own label, and loose fruit is identified with shelf barkers.

Apple and pear production has been part of the Leckford experience since the mid-1930s says fruit farm manager Tom Palmer, who has watched production expand since his appointment in 1980.

Today the 170 acre farm remains solidly based on self-fertile Queen Cox clones and traditional Orange Pippin, supported by seven acres of Bramley and a sprinkling of other traditional varieties such as Worcester and Russet, as well as the relatively newly Gala, and most recently Braeburn which have been grafted over from Katy.

Pears too are beginning to feature more prominently, and apart from Comice, the six acres mainly of Conference have been increased with an organic orchard which is already just in pick and will complete its full conversion period next season.

Palmer taking time away from the orchards as the first fruit is picked both by partners and locally recruited seasonal labour from nearby villages is confident about the future of the English top-fruit industry.

This is reflected by plans, he reveals, to bring production up to 230 acres, while at the same time fruit blocks will continue to be replaced as they pass their production peak.

“We do not get the yields of orchards in Kent, but we have shown that we are capable of growing some excellent quality, particularly for the post-Christmas period,” he says.

“It is one of the excellent attributes of the variety which I still regard as the champagne of apples.”

Leckford has proved the point through its skills in selecting the right fruit. There are six ultra low oxygen stores on the farm, each holding 100 tonnes, as well as two air-cooled stores in use earlier in the season.

Just how effectively they are used can be judged by the fact that last season it was able to match what the best other growers could achieve. This year it won the coveted industry's best storage trials competition. Points were awarded for such key constituent aspects as skin finish, colour, shape, pressure and of course taste.

John Foley, head of fruit, vegetables and horticulture, takes up the story. “Cox has always taken pride of place because we know customers enjoy it,” he says. “We give English fruit preference throughout the winter because if it is well grown, stored and handled it can match anything else on our shelves.

“The fact that we are growers ourselves is an added bonus, and perhaps for our category manager leader of which Leckford is part.

Foley has also been keen to push consumer satisfaction ñ as well as adding value by focussing on texture, flavour and ripeness.

Last October Waitrose took the step of introducing specially harvested “tree mature” Cox, which requires each orchard to be tested for quality before harvesting starts.

It is certainly not a gimmick, for significantly both loose and prepacked fruit is only available usually up until mid November, while the variety is judged to be in perfect condition when it comes off the tree.

“It requires extra attention to detail and greater discipline,” says Foley. “But the results have been well worthwhile in reinforcing our image as a quality retailer.”

There are other criteria, he adds, where customers are having a direct affect on multiple thinking. In a eco-sensitive world Foley has long been an advocate of full traceability with production methods being closely monitored.

This summer Waitrose became the first supermarket to adopt the LEAF marque, initially encompassing soft fruit ie strawberries and raspberries. This will be rapidly increased to include other major categories such as apples, pears and potatoes.

Every product ñ once it has shown that it can comply with the rigourous standards ñ is independently inspected and certified on an annual basis.

Leckford Fruit Farm is in the last stages of completion ñ again reflecting it may set store by traditional varieties, but it is modern in its marketing thinking.

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